The soul of Cuba in the heart of Black Mountain
Cousins Cuban Café brings new flavor to the mountains
Fred McCormick
The Valley Echo
October 19, 2020
Betty Martinez-Sperry, one of the five owners of Cousins Cuban Café in Black Mountain, tells her family’s story, which is conveyed by the photos displayed in the new downtown restaurant. Photo by Fred McCormick
When the parents of Betty Martinez-Sperry, Liane Martinez, Maylin Travers, Ana Espinosa and Bertica Spencer fled their tropical homeland to escape political turmoil in 1960, they were determined to preserve their Cuban heritage in their new home in Miami.
A key link to their culture could often be found in the kitchen, where the aroma of traditional dishes like ropa vieja, lechon asado and picadillo tantalizingly wafted through the air. The rich mixture of spices has always served as an appetizing reminder of the family's roots, and now they are bringing that authentic Cuban flavor to downtown Black Mountain.
The menu at Cousins Cuban Café, which opened today at 108 Broadway Street, reflects family recipes that have evolved over many years.
“I learned my passion for cooking from my mom,” said Martinez-Sperry, who operated a Cuban restaurant in Miami with her mother for 15 years. “Most of the recipes come from her and her grandmother, who was also a great cook. These recipes are a blend of all of the different generations.”
Martinez-Sperry moved to McDowell County eight years ago, and her passion for cooking led her to open the Farm to Fork Eatery at Silver Fork Winery in Morganton. She operated the business for four years and her authentic Cuban sandwiches quickly became a popular item.
“Everyone loved them,” she said.
A serendipitous reunion with her cousins in the mountains set in motion a chain of events that culminated with the Oct. 19 opening of Cousins Cuban Café.
“My sister and I built a house in Marion, not knowing that our cousins had built a cabin off of the same exit,” Martinez-Sperry said. “Of all of the places in N.C., these Cuban cousins ended up off the same exit. Destiny brought us all here.”
The Martinez family celebrates the opening of Cousins Cuban Café on Broadway Street in Black Mountain. The five owners (standing from second to the left to right), Bertica Spencer, Liane Martinez, Maylin Travers, Ana Espinosa and Betty Martinez-Sperry marked the occasion by welcoming the sister of Martinez-Sperry (left) and her 88-year-old mother Isabel (center). Courtesy of Cousins Cuban Café
Espinosa, Martinez and Travers bought the Dancing Dragonfly on Broadway in September of 2018. The shop, which is adjacent to the new eatery, sells handmade arts and crafts made by regional artisans.
“Since they bought it, my cousin Liane, who I call my ‘partner in crime’ in here, has been telling me that I need to open a Cuban café in Black Mountain,” Martinez-Sperry said. “My cousin ended up buying this space, and we knew it was time to do this together.”
The family began renovating the building in March, converting the former beauty salon to a dining room that seats 25 people with a kitchen and service counter. A door connecting the cafe to the Dancing Dragonfly was added during the remodeling process.
“Think of it like a Cuban Cracker Barrel,” Martinez-Sperry chuckled. “You can order Cuban food here and walk right next door and shop for gifts or pick something up for yourself.”
While there is no table service for the outdoor patio behind the Dancing Dragonfly, the space can accommodate customers picking up carry-out orders from the restaurant.
The interior of the café provides “a modern feel with a Cuban touch,” according to Martinez-Sperry. A hand-painted poinciana tree, known in Cuba as the flamboyant tree, and a collection of photos that tell the family’s story adorn the walls.
“The pictures are a tribute to our family, especially the amazing women,” Martinez-Sperry said. “The men are great, but the women are amazing.”
A collection of black-and-white photos on the wall tell the family’s story.
“It’s all about family,” Martinez-Sperry said. “We wanted to share our passion for the food and the culture with this community, which is our home now.”
The owners believe Black Mountain is the ideal location for the new restaurant.
“There is nothing like it around here,” Martinez-Sperry said. “Black Mountain is such a diverse community and we have a lot of visitors from Florida, and all over the country. Also, for us it’s a chance to have the Cuban food that we love.”
The Cousins Cuban Cafe menu features many well-known traditional dishes, while specials will incorporate more obscure, but equally flavorful recipes. Breakfast items like Cuban toast (tostada), savory empanadas and cafe con leche will cater to the morning traffic. Lunch options include Cuban sandwiches (Cubano), pan con bistec (thin steak. grilled onions, tomato, lettuce, potato sticks, on Cuban bread) and vaca frita de pollo (garlic lime chicken).
The menu offers vegan and vegetarian options, as well as sangria and a curated selection of craft beer. The restaurant sells its own private blend of authentic Cuban coffee, which can also be purchased at the Dancing Dragonfly.
For more information about Cousins Cuban Café, including the menu, visit cousinscubancafe.com or like the Cousins Cuban Cafe Facebook page.