The Grocery rings up a year around the corner
Cheshire business serves food, drinks and atmosphere
Fred McCormick
The Valley Echo
June 24, 2022
The Grocery, which opened as The Artisan in 2009, is celebrating one year under its new name. Photo by Fred McCormick
Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Black Mountain, situated among the relaxing charm of the Village of Cheshire, The Grocery serves up its own brand of ambience. By day, shoppers casually peruse the market’s diverse selection of local goods, wines and deli offerings. In the evening, couples and families catch up between bites of “elevated bar food” and sips of signature craft cocktails.
As owners Maggie Baker and Max Stabler celebrate the one-year anniversary of the launch of The Grocery, the cozy setting represents the personification of their vision when they purchased what was known as The Artisan in 2019.
“It was my dream to own a business in the food and beverage industry,” said Baker, who began exploring the possibility with her husband while they were living in Portland, Oregon. “I lived in Lexington as a child, and got my undergraduate degree from UNC-Asheville, and we wanted to try something new.”
She found the perfect place when she visited Black Mountain.
“I really liked that it included a market, because that’s something I had been drawn to during our search,” Baker said. “It was a wonderful place, but it also had the potential for us to put in our own concept. We purchased it in the summer of 2019, sold our house and moved to Black Mountain.”
While the couple settled into their new hometown, they viewed the space as an opportunity to connect with the community, which shaped their concept. As the new business owners found their footing, the COVID-19 pandemic forced them to alter the course.
Max Stabler, who owns The Grocery with his wife, Maggie Baker, organizes the market’s diverse wine selection. Photo by Fred McCormick
“We kept the previous name through 2019, but we realized we were the fourth owners of an establishment that’s been here since 2009,” Baker said. “We felt like it was time to move on, and put our own stamp on it.”
When The Artisan closed its doors in 2020, Baker and Stabler re-emerged last June with a fresh look.
“We wanted to define the space, and we started to think about what we could really stand behind and have the most fun with,” Baker said. “We didn’t want to call ourselves the neighborhood bar, but we also wanted to be that place. It’s cozy and casual, and at the same time the food is so good.”
The “eatin’, drinkin’, gettin’ place,” as the couple calls it, features a market that operates from 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., Monday - Saturday, while the bar is open from 4:30 p.m. - 9 p.m., Tuesday - Saturday.
Shoppers looking for treats will find local brands like Poppy Hand-Crafted Popcorn, Dynamite Roasting Co., Lusty Monk Mustard and fresh meats from Hickory Nut Gap. Behind the deli counter, Stabler displays his house-made sausage, regular selection of Norwegian steelhead and a rotation of freshly prepared food options.
Kathryn Starrs pours a beer in The Grocery, which is celebrating one year in the Village of Cheshire this June. Photo by Fred McCormick
Shelves are stocked with a diverse selection of wines, ranging from casual to high-end, while the coolers hold local and seasonal craft beers.
“I never stop researching, tasting and bringing in new stuff for the wine section,” Baker said. “In fact, we’re bringing back our wine tastings, which we’ll have at least once or twice a month. It’s a $5 tasting, but that’s waived with the purchase of a bottle.”
Next door, the bar’s food menu maximizes the potential of the confined kitchen.
“We’re limited to small plates, due to the small size back there, but we focus on using fresh and locally sourced food,” Baker said. “Our goal is to create tasty dishes that keep people coming back.”
The menu currently includes beef sliders with blueberry goat cheese and pickled red onion; deviled eggs with bacon, dill and Old Bay seasoning, trout dip made with fish from N.C. Sunburst Farms and more.
“Our chef, Jes, is amazing and she makes wonderful food,” Baker said. “We change the menu options every week or so, and we always keep everything seasonal, and a balance between meat and vegetarian options.”
The six taps feature a diverse range of local craft beers, and the wine selection is curated by Baker.
“We have a little something for everyone,” she said. “And, our cocktail menu is something we’re always excited to talk about.”
The seasonal drink menu contains The Grocery’s signature cocktails and its Summer of Nostalgia selection.
“We really wanted to feature retro cocktails, like Bee’s Knees, Whiskey Sour and Mai Tai,” Baker said. “That’s one way to keep it bright and fun.”
The signature options complement the classics, according to the owners.
“A menu shouldn’t have too many signature cocktails, it’s better to really hone in and do everything right,” Baker said. “So, we have the Whiskey Drink, the Vodka Drink, the Other Vodka Drink and, of course, the Hobo With a Shotgun, which is a shot of whiskey with a (Pabst Blue Ribbon).”
Seating options in The Grocery include an indoor bar, intimate dining room and an outdoor patio, designed to craft an environment where customers can “feel comfortable sitting and chatting with friends and family,” according to Baker.
“We have quite a few regulars that we feel like we’ve really gotten to know over time,” she said. “This community has been so welcoming, and we’re looking forward to meeting new customers in the future.”