Black Mountain's Past

When the ‘spanish castle’ reigned on the south side of town

Wendell Begley
Guest contributor
The Valley Echo
February 8, 2024

The scenic vista looks northeast to Christmount Assembly’s 2.25 miles of ridgetop boundary and 400 acres plus watershed. Much of the vast acreage seen in this photograph was purchased by Rafael Guastavino, Sr. beginning in 1894. My view spot above Bee Tree Branch is near the summit of Round Mountain (also known as Lakey Knob) located on Guastavino’s old boundary line. Photo by Wendell Begley

Looking Back, Saturday, November 21, 2015, marked the Swannanoa Valley Museum’s 10th Rim Hike of that season. All 44 of us had followed the trail-less ridgeline that included much of the historic 1894-96 Guastavino property boundary along the crest of the Blue Ridge Range on the Swannanoa Rim. Our starting point began at our home, which borders the old Guastavino boundary, 1.5 miles southeast of downtown Black Mountain (by way the crow flies) at an elevation of approximately 3,300 feet.  

In 2015, all of us (44 Rim Hikers) assembled for this picture while hiking Guastavino’s property boundary. The celebrated lands are now owned by Christmount Assembly. My photograph was taken in “Monie Sneed Gap” on the Swannanoa Rim. In March 2010, we named the respective Gap after local Legend and Museum member Monie Sneed (1934-2007). It was on that March day that the very first Rim Hike took place, and the annual adventure began. Since March of 2010-2015, Museum leaders have guided approximately 1,600 individuals on 66 Rim Adventures covering over 325 miles encircling the Swannanoa Valley. We proudly tout our Rim Hikes as “Eastern America’s Highest and Most Historic Skyline.” Photo courtesy of Wendell Begley

History often repeats itself and Black Mountain—initially called Grey Eagle—is a good example, especially as it relates to land development and economic growth. Over the last 192-plus years, a kaleidoscope of real estate transactions and the events tied to them, have given our valley rise to regional and national attention. Since the birth of local tourism with Jesse Stepp’s 1832 acquisition of land and overnight lodging facility in the upper North Fork Valley to recent land developments, Black Mountain has had a repetitive and colorful past.

An early photograph of world-renowned architect/builder Rafael Guastavino, Sr. (1842-1908). Courtesy of the Wendell Begley Collection

While growing up in Black Mountain in the 1950s and 60s, the south side of the railroad tracks was then known as the “poor side of town.” However, with the breakup of the Guastavino Estate during the late 1940s things were destined to change. In the early 1950s Christmount Assembly was established on a portion of the lands that were once home to one of the nation’s most prominent and well-known architects, Rafael Guastavino, Sr. (1842-1908).  Born in Valencia, Spain, Guastavino came to the United States in 1881. With America’s development of Portland Cement, Guastavino came here to perfect his patented tile and brick work into a thriving business. He specialized in the design and building of structural arches and domes. Guastavino called his construction concept “cohesive construction.” A simplistic version of the design is found in the approximate 128-year-old “arched doorway” leading to Rafael’s famous wine cellar on today’s Christmount Assembly grounds.  

Rafael Guastavino’s famous wine cellar, believed to have been built in 1895/96. The structure is located on the present day Christmount Assembly lands. Photo by Wendell Begley

In writing this series, I have included a quote from Joyce Parris’ book, A History of Black Mountain North Carolina and Its People. The excerpt is reflective of the national prominence given Mr. Guastavino: “When architects were polled in 1900 to name the ten most beautiful buildings in the U.S., all but two featured Guastavino’s work. Besides his famous design work on the Biltmore House and St. Lawrence Catholic Church (downtown Asheville/Guastavino is buried in a crypt inside the Church) forty-one states, five Canadian Provinces, and nine foreign countries (including India) boasted Guastavino’s work. New York City alone had 360 buildings featuring his labor. Guastavino’s architectural firm was connected with such prominent buildings as the Cathedral of St. John Divine in Manhattan (New York City), the Army War College (Carlisle, PA), the National Cathedral in Washington, D.C., and The Great Hall on New York’s Ellis Island, to name a few.”

Guastavino came to Western N.C. in 1894 when George Vanderbilt hired him to help with the design and construction of the Biltmore House. Favoring the Black Mountain community while working on Vanderbilt’s estate, Guastavino, in 1895, built a rambling frame home—known locally as the “Spanish Castle”—just southeast of Black Mountain on the land he called “Rhododendron.”

In 1894, Guastavino began purchasing some 25 adjoining tracts of land that would finally total 1,078 acres. The sprawling estate bordered the headwaters of the Catawba River, Glade Creek, Tom Creek, Camp Branch, Lakey Creek, Flat Creek (south of High Top) and the Broad River. The undulating 4-to-5-mile boundary ran along much of the crest of the Eastern Continental Divide (Blue Ridge Range/Swannanoa Rim) to the present-day Blue Ridge Assembly property atop Hirma Ridge (4,028-foot elevation on the Swannanoa Rim) near “High Top.”

Gustavino’s rambling three story residence called the “Spanish Castle.” The home was situated just inside the entrance to the present-day Christmount Assembly. The sprawling three story frame structure was razed in the late 1940s. Courtesy of the Wendell Begley Collection

While growing up in Black Mountain, I remember many interesting, tall tales regarding the Guastavino home called the “Spanish Castle.” Stories about Rafael’s second wife, Francesca, were the most impressionable; however, it would be difficult to separate fact and tradition. It was during the “Guastavino Era” that Black Mountain financially benefited from Mr. Guastavino’s endeavors. Not only did he employ local folks to run the estate, but he trained area craftsmen to operate his construction company. 

Guastavino’s prominent “brick stack”. Much of the brick and tiles used in the construction of the Biltmore House were fired from this historic kiln. The structure is located on the Assembly’s property. Photo by Wendell Begley

As fate would have it, several years ago much of the once famous “Rhododendron Estate” was purchased for construction of the gated residential community called “The Settings of Black Mountain.” The upscale residential community, like Guastavino’s influence, significantly impacted Black Mountain’s economy.        

Seventy-one years ago, in October 1953 this picture was taken. The group includes individuals present when the winner of the nation-wide “$1,000 Lot for A New Name” contest was announced. At that time, the Board of Directors were trying to choose a name for the new Assembly grounds. The winner, submitting the name “Christmount”, was Mrs. R. G. Thyse of Asheville. In submitting the winning name, Mrs. Thyse was awarded a “Lot” of her choice on the Assembly grounds. Courtesy of the Wendell Begley Collection

As a parting personal sidebar, in the years before the breakup of the Guastavino’s Estate in the 1940s, my father Marcus F. Begley (1915-1989) and Jerry Atkin’s daddy Ruffner Atkins (1914-1962) were partners in the Black Mountain Coal & Transfer Company located near the bottom of Cherry Street. Both men had a well-established and successful business relationship with the Trustees of Mr. Guastavino’s estate. Interestingly, fate returned to play a role in the old Guastavino lands as Jerry Atkins (1947-2019), a good friend of mine and then-town zoning administrator, assisted developers in planning The Settings. And, that is not the end of the story, so it happens that one of the roads in The Settings was named “Little Bear Creek” after my Daddy. “Little Bear” was dad’s well-worn nickname among his close friends in town. Dad earned the title having been a Golden Gloves Boxing Champion while serving in the U.S. Army … Cheers!

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Copyright: M. Wendell Begley, series 860, VE6, February 9, 2024