Abbiocco Pizzeria moves up the mountain to Peri Social House
Wood-fired mobile kitchen finds higher ground after destructive Old Fort flood
Fred McCormick
The Valley Echo
November 19, 2024
Glenn Osterberg was meticulous in his planning when he designed his custom mobile kitchen. He outfitted Abbiocco Pizzeria, which takes its name from the Italian word describing the feeling of drowsiness that follows a hearty meal, with a wood-fired oven from Fiero Forni, while creating an efficient counter-clockwise work space to complement its left-handed owner.
With 20 years of kitchen experience, which includes working under Michelin star chefs Ignacio Mattos and Hugue Dufour, Osterberg’s pizza recipes were well-received in Old Fort, where he opened his operation on the property of Whaley Farm Brewery in August of 2023. Everything changed the morning of Sept. 27, as Tropical Storm Helene flooded Mill Creek, which revealed a trail of debris and devastation when the waters receded.
The damage was widespread and severe, but the chef’s food truck, which rested against a nearby utility pole, remained intact. When Abbiooci resumes business in the coming days, it will do so in neighboring Black Mountain, as the resident eatery at Peri Social House.
Whaley, which opened in 2022, was one of many businesses and homes in downtown Old Fort to suffer severe damaged in the natural disaster. Prior to the storm’s arrival, Osterberg could not imagine the water reaching his mobile kitchen.
“The way the flood plain is there, historically, the water could have barely come up to my trailer,” he said. “Naively, I thought there was no way it could have reached the trailer, but there was a way.”
As he arrived in town to assess the damage, Osterberg was surprised to find his trailer feet from its original location.
“The way the trailer was situated, it should have shifted and washed down the creek to never be seen again,” he said. “But, somehow it floated around Whaley and into the trailer park next door. I think the weight of it caused it to shift and hit the pole, perfectly, and a bunch of debris gathered under it and pinned it there.”
The structure was undamaged, while the elevated cabinets Osterberg included in his design were dry. The mobile kitchen was recovered and transported to safety.
“The company that made it, Custom Trailer Pros out of Tennessee, is great,” he said. “They came out and fixed a few minor things, and I couldn’t believe how it held up when so much around it was destroyed.”
As the Osterbergs considered their future in the weeks after the storm, a serendipitous encounter between Glenn’s wife, Nicole, and Peri Social House owner Trevor Rudisill, who opened the boutique hotel and coffee, beer and wine bar last August, with his wife Kathryn, led to an opportunity for both businesses.
“She was sitting at the bar, doing some work on her computer, and Trevor happened to be talking to some of our customers,” Glenn said. “Those regulars were telling him how much they love Abbiocco, and how that style of pizza was their favorite.”
Trevor agreed, and asked Nicole if she had visited of the Old Fort food truck.
“She was like, ‘that’s funny, my husband owns that place,’” Glenn continued. “It was really cool how it all came together.”
Adding a food option to the spacious gathering place was always the plan for the Rudisills.
“It really felt like it was meant to be,” Kathryn said. “We do have great pizza places in town, but what Glenn does is something different. We’re really excited to have them here.”
Abbiocco sources its ingredients from farms within 15 miles, according to Glenn, while flour and oils are sourced from organic suppliers in Italy.
“We use Chop Shop for meat and charcuteries, and Mountain Foods for fresh items like onions and garlic,” he said. “But, all the fancy vegetables we get from the farms around here. They really dictate our menu.”
The menu shifts, depending on availability, but the pizzeria will unveil its popular Maple Pig and Angry Roman pies when it opens in Black Mountain.
“These are some of our greatest hits,” Glenn said. “The Angry Roman is based on an old pasta dish from Rome, and it’s essentially roasted red onions, bacon, tomato sauce, chili flake, parmesan and paprika. It’s one of my favorites.”
The Maple Pig combines smoked bacon, scallions, mozzarella, spiced maple syrup and black pepper.
“It’s sweet, salty, smoky and has all the things going on,” he said. “That one has always been one of our top sellers.”
Other featured items range from meatball-stuffed local peppers to focaccia with figs and goat cheese. The chef draws from his experience with pasta dishes when creating new recipes.
“Pizza is just a vessel, like an edible plate,” Glenn said. “I take flavors I know from making pastas and put them in pizza form.”
The concept pairs well with the vast selection of local craft beers and wines available at Peri Social House.
“We’re sad to leave Old Fort, but this place is beautiful,” he said. “I would like to drink wine and eat pizza in that courtyard, so that’s the experience we want to bring to Black Mountain.”